Some times when we are on mountains we have not the possibility to find a good place for a sure abseiling anchorage. When we have not rocks to place a belay or we have not many equipment we can recourse to other techniques for abseiling or roping down a mate. When is compact snow we can use a…
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Climbing alone: auto-belay
Is never 100% safe when you speed climb alone but here some techniques to be “safer” when you climb alone and want to have some protection in some meters: 1) 2 daisy or slings. Climb with a harmess with 2 daisy or long slings with one carabinner / cam on each one. On the hard…
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Dry Ski
What to do if you’re skiing down and you have not a rope or you want to save time or to full ski a route? Vivian Bruchez is a master on Dry ski, he develop techniques to down ski (climb) in rocky sections. 1. Back on the rock: when is narrow between rocks, put the…
Read Moreski to crampons to ski
You are skiing down on a couloir and is a too steep part, or completely ice, and you can not ski for some meters? You don’t have the equipment (or time) to make a rappel, here a solution to change ski to climb mode (also can be good if you climb up a couloir and…
Read MoreHow to Climb and Belay Alone a Multipitch Route
FONT: http://fcorpet.free.fr/Denis/Solo-En.html Mountain is hazardous. Rock climbing is dangerous. Climbing alone is even more dangerous (e.g., Serious Accident. I use to climb integral solo without belaying, with two gold rules : being able to climb-down every step, and no objective hazard (no stones falling, solid rock). 2008 I decided to test auto-belaying. To climb harder…
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