MOUNTAIN ATHLETE

A mountain athlete is someone who do activities in the mountains with a performance perspective. Mountaineering is a very complex activity, that can involve many sports and disciplines, from climbing to running, skiing, paragliding, ice climbing… and so the preparation is very complex. It requires Physical Capacities and Technical abilities. And also creativity to find the way of Exploration and mental strength to accept the Exposure.

The Exploration is all the work and creativity to do a project, if is a virgin terrain or a virgin region, a new route or a new idea.

The Exposure is the risk and compromise we want to accept and how we manage it. It comes from the style we use, the support we have, the remoteness of the place we are and the communication we have and possibilities of rescue or evacuation. The season, the weather and the objective risks of the place where we do our activity.

They are 5 principal factors that affects the performance:

  • PHYSICAL CAPACITIES: Is our body, the engine. It is build by Genetics, Training , Nutrition, Resting. The Physical Capacities are the speed, endurance, strenght, injuries, altitude adaptation… we have.
  • TECHNICAL CAPACITIES: Is how we can use our body. We move-it in a determinate way using the Techniques , biomechanics, experience and knowledge. Technical Abilities are the free climbing, ice climbing, mixt or dry and ad climb dificulties we are able to perform.
  • PSYCHOLOGICAL FACTORS: Is how we drive the body. It comes from otivation, focus, pain management… and it is build in our story, influences
  • STRATEGY: Is how we will use all the factors to give the best performance. From pacing, to searching a route, logistics, adaptation to weather, decision taking…
  • GEAR and equipment: Is the extermal help we will have, the adaptation to the gear and how we use-it.

The involvement of very different activities make the preparation complicated, and the decision on focusing on specification or polyvalence.

ActivityBest performance
5000m00:12:27
10000m00:26:17
1/2 marathon00:58:18
marathon2:01:37
100k6:09:14
100M11:46:37
24h303,5
VK00:28:54
2000m+1:09:36
3000m+1:58:53
24h elevation20320
VK ski00:36:00
1000m downhill00:07:12
24h elevation ski23386
marathon 4000m2:50:06
marathon 5000m3:21:36
4000-5000m+00:50:00
5000-6000m+1:03:00
6000-7000m+1:25:00
7000-8000m+2:54:00
AD1686m/h
D800m/h
MD634m/h
ED200m/h
Ad ClimbA6
Ice ClimbingWI12
Dry toolingD16
Mixed climbingM15
Steep Skiing5.6 E4
Sport climbing9c
Onsight climb9a
Flash climb9a+
Trad climb9a
Free solo8b+
Free solo wall7c+